Trapeze Jacket by Stefanie Japel

Continuation of my knitting project du jour: finishing the body trim of the “Trapeze Jacket” by Stefanie Japel

A week ago today, I wrote my first official blog post documenting the progress of my knitting project du jour, the “Trapeze Jacket” by Stefanie Japel, taken from her “Glam Knits” book. Last week, I had focused on my experience with tackling the yoke portion of the jacket, which mainly comprised of a series of raglan increase rows. I also got around to starting the body part of the jacket, which involved separating the sleeve stitches from the body (i.e. by putting them on hold on scrap pieces of ribbon), and shaping the waist with another series of increase rows.

At this point, I’m actually pretty far into this knitting project… in fact, I’ve already started work on the first sleeve! However, I still have yet to blog about my work on the body trim portion of the jacket, so that’s what I’m going to cover today.

Just like in last week’s post, here is a diagram of my current knitting project, with the part that I’m currently blogging about highlighted in green.

Trapeze Jacket Project Diagram - Tackling the Body Trim (3 Cycles of Fishtail Lace Pattern)Image Source: Scanned From “Glam Knits” Book, w/ Notes Added by Karina

Decoding the Knitting Pattern (Part 3): Working on the “Body Trim” (By Completing 3 Cycles of “Fishtail Lace” Pattern)

For my chosen size of 34″ bust, the body trim pattern starts off by requesting a cast on row of 111 stitches. Personally, I have a fondness for the long-tail cast on method. Here is a photo of what my body trim cast on row looked like on size US 13 (9mm) circular knitting needles.

Trapeze Jacket Knitting Project Update - Body Trim Cast On Row

Except for a few initial rows of garter stitch (which, along with the cast on row, will help form the bottom edge of the jacket body… see diagram above), the rest of the body trim consists of 3 vertical repetitions (or “cycles”) of the Fishtail Lace Pattern.

Here is the exciting part! Decoding complicated knitting patterns like this Fishtail Lace Pattern by Stefanie Japel is exactly the reason why I had wanted to start a knitting blog. I hope that by blogging about my experience with deciphering these knitting patterns, I can ideally provide insight and potentially help anyone else who may be having trouble while trying to tackle the same project.

Here is a diagram of Stefanie Japel’s 8-row Fishtail Lace Pattern.

Fishtail Lace Pattern Used in Trapeze Jacket Knitting ProjectImage Source: Scanned from “Glam Knits” Book, w/ Notes Added by Karina

This diagram is great and all… but are you like me, and are better at following step-by-step instructions instead of studying visual diagrams? Then follow me as a I go through the Fishtail Lace Pattern row-by-row, analyzing each line and offering any tips that I may have to my fellow blog readers!

How to Knit Stefanie Japel’s Fishtail Lace Pattern?

“Work over a multiple of 10 sts + 11″

Translation? The Fishtail Lace Pattern can only be performed on rows that consist of multiples of 10 stitches, plus an extra 11 stitches at the end of the row (i.e. 21 stitches, 31 stitches, 41 stitches, etc…).

“Row 1 (RS): K1, *yo, k3, SK2P, k3, yo, k1; rep from * to end.”

Translation? The 1st row of the Fishtail Lace pattern takes place on the “Right Side” (RS) of the knitting pattern. Start off by “Knitting 1 Stitch” (K1). You’ll then have to repeat the following steps for the multiple (i.e. what’s listed between the asterisks, a.k.a. *…*) until you’ve reached the end of the row:

  1. Yarn Over” (YO) by wrapping the working yarn on the back of your right needle around the bottom, and then up across the front of that right needle
  2. Knit 3 Stitches” (K3)
  3. Slip 1, Knit 2 Together, Pass Slipped Stitch Over” (SK2P) by slipping 1 stitch purlwise from left to right needle, then knitting 2 stitches together, followed by passing the previously slipped stitch from the right needle over the remaining stitch formed by knitting the 2 stitches together, on the left needle
  4. Knit 3 Stitches” (K3) again
  5. Yarn Over” (YO) once more
  6. Knit 1 Stitch” (K1) to finish the multiple before starting the repeat again from the first *

“Row 2: Purl.”

Translation? On the 2nd row of the Fishtail Lace Pattern (which occurs on the “Wrong Side” or WS of the knitting pattern), simply purl the entire row.

“Row 3: K1, *k1, yo, k2, SK2P, k2, yo, k1, p1; rep from * to last 10 sts, k1, yo, k2, SK2P, k2, yo, k2.”

Translation? For the 3rd row of the Fishtail Lace Pattern, start off again by “Knitting 1 Stitch” (K1). You’ll then have to once again repeat the following instructions (i.e. what’s listed between the asterisks, a.k.a. *…*) until you’ve reached the last 10 stitches the row:

  1. Knit 1 Stitch” (K1)
  2. Yarn Over” (YO) once by wrapping your working yarn on the right in a clockwise cycle around your right needle
  3. Knit 2 Stitches” (K2)
  4. Slip 1, Knit 2 Together, Pass Slipped Stitch Over” (SK2P) by slipping 1 stitch from left to right needle, knitting 2 stitches together, and passing the slipped stitch back from the right needle to the left needle, over the stitch that resulted from knitting 2 stitches together
  5. Knit 2 Stitches” (K2) again
  6. Yarn Over” (YO) again
  7. Purl 1 Stitch” (P1)

Like I said before, repeat these 7 steps until you’ve reached the last 10 stitches in the row. For the first 9 of these last 10 stitches, you can follow the pattern that’s listed in the multiple. However, instead of “Purling 1 Stitch” (P1) at the end on the 10th stitch, you simply “Knit 1 Stitch” (K1) in its place.

“Rows 4 and 6: P10, *k1, p9; rep from *to last st, p1.”

Translation? On rows 4 and 6 of the Fishtail Lace Pattern, you will be following the same instructions. You are essentially purling the entire row for both, except in between “Purling the 1st 10 Stitches” (P10) and “Purling the Last 10 Stitches” (P10), you will be “Knitting 1 Stitch” (K1) for “Every 9 Stitches Purled” (P9). In layman’s terms, you will be starting off rows 4 and 6 by “Purling 10 Stitches” (P10), then repeating the next 2 steps that make up the multiple:

  1. Knit 1 Stitch” (K1)
  2. Purl 9 Stitches” (P9)

Repeat steps 2 and 3 above until you’ve reached the last 10 stitches of the row, then “Purl 10 Stitches” (P10).

“Row 5: K1, *k2, yo, k1, SK2P, k1, yo, k2, p1; rep from * to last 10 sts, k2, yo, k1, SK2P, k1, yo, k3.”

Translation? Start off row 5 by “Knitting 1 Stitch” (K1), then follow the next few steps which make up this row’s multiple:

  1. Knit 2 Stitches” (K2)
  2. Yarn Over” (YO)
  3. Knit 1 Stitch” (K1)
  4. Slip 1, Knit 2 Together, Pass Slipped Stitch Over” (SK2P)
  5. Knit 1 Stitch” (K1) again
  6. Yarn Over” (YO) again
  7. Knit 2 Stitches” (K2) again
  8. Purl 1 Stitch” (P1)

Repeat the previous 8 steps (i.e. the multiple) until you’ve reached the last 10 stitches of the row. Just like in row 3, you can follow the pattern that’s listed in the multiple for the first 9 out of 10 stitches. However, instead of “Purling 1 Stitch” (P1) at the end, you simply “Knit 1 Stitch” (K1) in its place.

“Row 7: K1, *k3, yo, SK2P, yo, k3, p1; rep from * to last 10 sts, k3, yo, SK2P, o, k4.”

Translation? Knit 1 Stitch” (K1) to start off row 7 of the Fishtail Lace Pattern. Then go through the following steps for this row’s multiple:

  1. Knit 3 Stitches” (K3)
  2. Yarn Over” (YO)
  3. Slip 1, Knit 2 Together, Pass Slipped Stitch Over” (SK2P) in the same format as before
  4. Yarn Over” (YO) again
  5. Knit 3 Stitches” (K3) again
  6. Purl 1 Stitch” (P1) again

Repeat the previous 8 steps (i.e. the multiple) until you’ve reached the last 10 stitches of the row. Just like in row 3, you can follow the pattern that’s listed in the multiple for the first 9 out of 10 stitches. However, instead of “Purling 1 Stitch” (P1) at the end, you simply “Knit 1 Stitch” (K1) in its place.

“Row 8: Purl.”

Translation? Just like with the 2nd row, all you will have to do on the last row (i.e. the 8th row) of the Fishtail Pattern is to simply purl the entire row.

And that, my friend, is the entire Fishtail Lace Pattern, broken down and deciphered…. step-by-step! These 8 rows together will form 1 vertical repetition (or “cycle”) of the lace pattern. To see how all of this looks, visually, check out this close-up view of 1 cycle of Fishtail Lace Pattern in the body trim of my “Trapeze Jacket” knitting project…

Trapeze Jacket Knitting Project Update - Body Trim: 1st Cycle of Fishtail Lace Pattern

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Catching up on my knitting project du jour: the “Trapeze Jacket” by Stefanie Japel

Here we go! I’m psyched to finally start blogging on the progress of my knitting project du jour. Follow my blog posts as I try my hand at decoding the latest knitting pattern. I’ll also be including a “photo diary” of sorts that will graphically record my progress.

Current Knitting Project: “Trapeze Jacket” by Stefanie Japel ["Glam Knits" Book]

“The foundation of this jacket is knit from the top down on one circular needle. The lacy trim is knit from the bottom up and attached later, allowing for the decorative cast-on edge of the lace to shape the hemlines of the body and the sleeves.” -Stefanie Japel, “Glam Knits” book (page 95)

Trapeze Jacket knitting projects by Stefanie Japel

Introducing the Trapeze Jacket knitting project by Stefanie Japel, taken from her Glam Knits book!

“Trapeze Jacket” Knitting Project Summary Info

  • Started: October 3, 2010
  • Finished measurements: Bust = 34″/86 cm
  • Substitute yarn used: Lana Grossa’s “Ciao” yarn (50% superwash virgin merino wool/50% acrylic; made in Italy; color #010 Green)
  • Needles used: Size US 13 (9mm) 36″/81cm circular bamboo knitting needles
  • Gauge: 8 1/2 sts & 15 1/2 rows = 4″/10cm in Stockinette (St) stitch

Stefanie Japel’s “Trapeze Jacket” knitting project asked for the use of Malabrigo’s “Aquarella” yarn. However, I had decided to substitute the Aquarella yarn with a similar thick, variegated yarn… introducing Lana Grossa’s “Ciao” yarn!

Lana

Photo of Lana Grossa's Ciao yarn... the substitute yarn that I used for my Trapeze Jacket knitting project

Those who know me well are aware that green is my all-time favorite color, ever. So when I first laid eyes on this Ciao yarn, I knew I had to buy it… even before I knew what knitting pattern I would be using the yarn for! Lucky for me I had picked up 13 balls of Ciao yarn (each weighing 50 grams and measuring 30 meters, with a similar gauge to the Aquarella yarn), which meant I had not only selected the perfect replacement yarn to use in this Trapeze Jacket knitting project, but I had bought just precisely enough! I love it when things work out perfectly like that.

Yarn Substitution: How to Replace the Yarn Specified in Stefanie Japel’s Trapeze Jacket Knitting Project

Ever wanted to attempt a knitting project like Stefanie Japel’s Trapeze Jacket, but wished to use a replacement yarn different from the one specified? When it comes to yarn substitution, all you’ll need to do is a little knitting math. It’s not hard, once you grasp the basic concept!

These are the steps I had to go through to substitute the yarn specified in Stefanie Japel’s Trapeze Jacket knitting project with my chosen Ciao yarn from La Grossa.

Note: References to the Aquarella specified yarn in Stefanie Japel’s Trapeze Jacket knitting project are listed in blue, while references to my chosen Ciao substitute yarn are listed in coral pink.
1) Locate the yarn info needed to complete the garment in your chosen size (for both the yarn specified in your knitting project & the substitute yarn)
  • E.g. In my case, I would need to locate the yarn info needed for my selected 34″ bust size for both Aquarella (i.e. the yarn specified in the Trapeze Jacket knitting project) and Ciao (i.e. my chosen substitute yarn)
2) Note the following yarn metrics (for each of the 2 types of yarns)
  • # of balls/hanks/skeins of yarn
    • Specified yarn: 7 hanks
    • Substitute yarn: unknown for now (TBD)
  • Yarn weight per each ball/hank/skein (in grams)
    • Specified yarn: 100 grams
    • Substitute yarn: 50 grams
  • Yarn length per each ball/hank/skein (in yards and/or meters)
    • Specified yarn: 65 yards or 59 meters per hank
    • Substitute yarn: 30 meters per hank
  • Yarn fiber (i.e. yarn type or “material”)
    • Specified yarn: 100% wool
    • Substitute yarn: 50% superwash virgin merino wool/50% acrylic
  • Gauge information, including…
    • Gauge size (i.e. width & height of gauge swatch, in inches and/or centimeters)
      • Specified yarn: 4″/10 cm x 4″ /10 cm swatch
      • Substitute yarn: 4″/10 cm x 4″ /10 cm swatch
    • Size of knitting needles needed to achieve gauge size…
      • Specified yarn: Size US 13 (9 mm) 32″/81 cm or 40″/102 cm circular knitting needles
      • Substitute yarn: Size US 13 (9 mm) to Size US 15 (10 mm) knitting needles
    • Gauge stitch type to be knitted to achieve gauge size (usually basic Stockinette stitch/St st, but sometimes project asks for gauge to be knitted across a specific knitting pattern)
      • Specified yarn: “St” st
      • Substitute yarn: Not given (assumed “St” st)
    • Yarn tension (# of stitches needed to achieve gauge size width & # of rows needed to achieve gauge size height, when knitted across given gauge stitch type using specified size of knitting needles)
      • Specified yarn: 8 1/2 sts x 15 1/2 rows (via “St” st, on size US 13 needles)
      • Substitute yarn: 9 sts x 11 rows (via assumed “St” st, on size US 13-15 needles)
3) Compare the yarn info for your potential “substitute yarn” against the yarn info for the knitting project’s “specified yarn” (i.e. info gathered above in step #2)
  • In order to find a suitable replacement yarn, there are certain basic “knitting math” requirements that need to be fulfilled
  • The substitute yarn should have an equivalent (or close to equivalent)total yarn length” of all balls/hanks/skeins needed to complete the knitting project vs. the original specified yarn
    • Total yarn length = (# of balls/hanks/skeins of yarn) x (yarn length per each ball/hank/skein)
      • Specified yarn’s total yarn length = (7 hanks) x (65 yards or 59 meters per hank) = 455 yards or 413 meters
      • Substitute yarn’s total yarn length = (13 hanks) x (30 meters pre hank) = 390 meters
  • The substitute yarn should have an equivalent (or close to equivalent)total yarn weight” of all balls/hanks/skeins needed to complete the knitting project vs. the original specified yarn
    • Total yarn weight = (# of balls/hanks/skeins of yarn) x (yarn weight per each ball/hank/skein)
      • Specified yarn’s total yarn weight = (7 hanks) x (100 grams) = 700 grams
      • Substitute yarn’s total yarn weight = (13 hanks) x (50 grams) = 650 grams
  • The substitute yarn should have an equivalent (or close to equivalent)gauge information” vs. the original specified yarn, including…
    • An equivalent (or close to equivalent) yarn tension
    • An equivalent (or close to equivalent) gauge stitch type
    • An equivalent (or close to equivalent) size of knitting needles
      • Specified yarn: 8 1/2 sts x 15 1/2 rows yarn tension, via “St” st gauge stitch type, on US 13 size of knitting needles
      • Substitute yarn: 9 sts x 11 rows yarn tension, via assumed “St” st gauge stitch type, on US 13-15 size of knitting needles
4) Lastly, confirm your “substitute yarn” will in fact reproduce the same gauge swatch as the “specified yarn”
  • This is extremely important! Don’t underestimate the importance of creating a gauge swatch before starting any knitting project! Why? Because it would just be tragic if you knitted an entire outfit before realizing it doesn’t fit.
  • What this means is that you’ll need to actually knit a gauge swatch using your “substitute yarn,” and by doing so finding out what size of knitting needles is needed to achieve the same yarn tension in the “substitute yarn” as the “specified yarn” (when knitted across the same gauge stitch type, and over the same gauge size)…
    • If your substitute yarn’s gauge swatch ends up being too big, you’ll have to redo the swatch using smaller knitting needles until you achieve the same yarn tension across the same gauge swatch size as with the specified yarn
    • If your substitute yarn’s gauge swatch ends up being too small, you’ll have to redo the swatch using larger knitting needles until you achieve the same yarn tension across the same gauge swatch size as with the specified yarn
5) Final tip: Be sure to keep “fiber material” in mind!
  • It’s also extremely important to keep fiber material in mind when making a yarn substitution. Why? Because sometimes drastically different fiber materials in the “substitute yarn” vs. the “specified yarn” could result in drastically different gauge swatch sizes after washing the swatch
  • For example, cotton may shrink after washing, whereas cashmere tends to expand post-wash. Just something else to consider when calculating “substitute yarn” gauge swatch sizes!

Note: Normally, I’d be breaking up my blog posts so they wouldn’t cover whole knitted sections of my knitting projects! Unfortunately, I’ve already made quite a bit of headway working on this “Trapeze Jacket“… long before I had even started this blog. So pardon me as I fly through the beginning part of working through this knitting project.

Decoding the Knitting Pattern (Part 1): Tackling the “Yoke”

Trapeze Jacket knitting project diagram 1 (decoding the yoke)

Trapeze Jacket knitting project diagram #1 - Finished yoke and start of body (waist shaping)

Since this Trapeze Jacket is knitted from the top down and in one-go (i.e. from one front edge to the other front edge, by crossing the right-front panel, the back panel, and the left-front panel), the yoke is therefore knitted first.

The yoke (or “neck” section) for this jacket is essentially the top of the right-front panel, the top of the right sleeve, the top of the back panel, the top of the left sleeve, and the top of the left-front panel… all knitted together in a single row.

How to knit the yoke knitting pattern for Stefanie Japel’s Trapeze Jacket?
  • For my selected 34″ bust size version of the knitting project, these are the steps I had to go through to knit the “yoke” knitting pattern for Stefanie Japel’s Trapeze Jacket
    • First off, I had to knit in garter stitch for a few rows after casting on
    • Both the cast on row and the garter stitched rows formed the entire top neck edge “band” of the jacket
    • The rest of the yoke consists of regularly knitting into the pattern raglan increase rows (see below to find out how)
  • How to knit the raglan increase knitting pattern for the yoke part of Stefanie Japel’s Trapeze Jacket?
    • For this project, knitting raglan increase rows for the yoke is done by placing markers (i.e. “PM”) in specific “increase” areas of each row, then knitting 1 stitch in front and knitting 1 stitch in back (i.e. “KFB” increase stitches) before, and after, the markers
  • The yoke is complete by the time I reach 122 stitches in total per row

Decoding the Knitting Pattern (Part 2): Starting the “Body” (Separating the Sleeves from the Body & Shaping the Waist)

  • Once at 122 stitches, here’s the tricky part: The single-row yoke that once covered the right-front panel, the right sleeve, the back panel, the left sleeve, and the left-front panel will now become the body, and will have to be split up (to separate the sleeves from the body, which will be worked on at separate times)
  • Through placing markers and putting the 2 sleeve sections off to the side on scrap pieces of ribbon, the remaining stitches can then be pieced together and knit in unison in a row
  • These rows now form the parts of the right-front panel, back panel, and left-front panel of the body that are located just under the “armpit” areas of the jacket (i.e. right at the start of the waist shaping part of the knitting pattern)

Want to see what all of this looks like so far?

Here is a picture taken on October 7, 2010, and it depicts my progress up to that day while knitting the Trapeze Jacket knitting project by Stefanie Japel (shown at the point where the sleeves have already been separated from the body, and the body stitches have rejoined for shaping the waist).

Trapeze Jacket knitting project update photograph - finished yoke and started body (waist shaping)

Photograph documenting my current status at knitting the Trapeze Jacket by Stefanie Japel (yoke finished, body started and currently performing waist shaping)

Once waist shaping begins (by increasing 4 stitches per every Right Side/RS row), I basically have to continue knitting regular increase rows until I reach 100 stitches in total. After that point, it’s another few rows worked evenly in Stockinette stitch before placing all stitches on another piece of scrap ribbon, to be worked on at a later point.

And that, finally, is the conclusion of this part of my knitting project! Stay tuned for further updates. Cheers!

Image sources: Official “Trapeze jacket” knitting project images scanned from “Glam Knits” source book by Karina of KnittingandPurling.com.
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Office potluck time! Reproduced Cracker Barrel’s Hashbrown Casserole with a copycat recipe, plus update on my current knitting project

Buffalo and Niagara Falls New York hand drawn map (featured image)

My husband & I would make the 2 hour trek across the border to Niagara Falls & Buffalo, New York just to satisfy our "Cracker Barrel" fix (No, seriously. I'm not kidding!)

Today was one of our office potluck lunch parties (we threw one of my co-workers a bridal shower, and it was our boss’ 40th birthday!), so I spent all last night (and this morning) making a Hash Brown Casserole that’s supposed to taste exactly like the one served at Cracker Barrel.

This is a funny story, actually. Both my husband and I are Canadian (living in Toronto), but we often go on road trips down to Buffalo just to shop and eat. We absolutely love going down to the States, and for some bizarre reason we have a fondness for chain side-of-the-highway road trip restaurant Cracker Barrel. I’ve gone there so many times, yet I order the same thing each and every time: Raspberry LemonadeSugar Cured Ham with Hash Brown Casserole and Corn as sides, plus Corn Bread Biscuits. And if I have room for dessert, then I’d get the Coca Cola Fudge Chocolate Cake (another copycat recipe that I’ll be tackling in the near future… I already bought all the ingredients!). Mmm.

Cracker Barrel's Hash Brown Casserole copycat recipe (thumbnail image)

Cracker Barrel's super yummy Hashbrown Casserole side dish

So anyway, I was desperately trying to find a good recipe that would recreate Cracker Barrel’s Hash Brown Casserole. I originally intended to cook it in the slow cooker while I was sleeping, but when I woke up this morning I realized that the plug wasn’t plugged in deep enough and the casserole wasn’t even the least bit cooked!!! Definitely talking panic hour here.

I ended up cranking up the oven to 400 degrees, baked the casserole for 40 minutes, then spooned it back into the slow cooker and cooked it in the slow cooker while working in my office for an hour and a half before the potluck lunch. Despite the setbacks, everything worked out well in the end because everyone seemed to enjoy my dish (some even said it was their favorite, woo!).

So, knitting-wise, I’m currently working on a “Trapeze Jacket” by Stefanie Japel (found in her “Glam Knits” book). I’ve already taken some pictures of the progress so far… just haven’t had the chance to blog about it yet. But, yes, stay tuned… more info to come!

Here is the copycat recipe that I used to try and recreate Cracker Barrel’s Hash Brown Casserole. As I’ve already mentioned, the casserole turned out great… tastes just like the real one at Cracker Barrel!

I do have a few suggestions though. When picking out your frozen hashbrowns at the grocery store, definitely go for the shredded kind if it’s available. That’ll make it more authentic and true to the Cracker Barrel version. However, if the shredded kind isn’t available you can still make do with cubed hashbrowns. Or, if you’re truly desperate? Frozen fries work, too! Just chop them up into cubes while they’re in their frozen state, and they’ll work as replacement hashbrowns like a dream.

Anyway, here’s the copycat recipe. Feel free to drop me a comment if you end up trying it out yourself!

Cracker Barrel’s “Hashbrown Casserole” Copycat Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 2 lbs frozen hash browns
  • 1/2 cup butter, melted
  • 1 (10 1/4 oz) can cream of chicken soup
  • 1 pint sour cream
  • 1/2 cup onion, peeled and chopped
  • 2 cups cheddar cheese, grated
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1/4 tsp pepper

Directions:

  • Preheat oven to 350°F
  • Spray 11″ x 14″ baking dish with cooking spray
  • Mix above ingredients together and place in prepared pan
  • Bake for 45 minutes or until brown on top

Prep Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour
Serves: 10 to 12

Image sources: Buffalo hand drawn map courtesy of MapsIllustrated.com, tweaked by Karina of KnittingandPurling.com.
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